Algae is a common problem in swimming pools. What is it; what are the different types & how is it successfully prevented and treated. First of all, algae is a single-celled plant form. Some are aquatic (live in water), some are not. Algae utilizes the process of photosynthesis to manufacture its own food. Algae comes in very wide variety of colors and forms making it adaptable to almost any condition. Although some forms are virulent – especially Black or Mustard algae -, most are harmless and pose no more than a nuisance to most pool owners. Due to algae’s microscopic size, it takes literally millions of these plants to accumulate to be noticed by the naked eye! By that time it may be too late and very costly to correct. Prevention of algae blooms is the best solution. Pool removal cost Sydney for removing the structure and fill in the open space is not always a concern.

Green Algae: The most common form of algae that we deal with in swimming pools is “green” algae. Green algae (varies in color from blue-green to yellow-green to dark-green) can be free floating in the water (turning the water a hazy-green) or can be wall-clinging (patches of green). Wall-clinging varieties range in severity from small patches on pool walls and bottoms to virtually covering the entire pool surface. Green algae has the ability to clog filters and may even cause surface damage if left untreated. Green algae can be treated fairly simply and quickly with a proper, aggressive shocking & algaecide.

A relative of regular green algae is “small-celled green algae” (SCGA). The difference is seen in these areas: 1. The water remains relatively clear. Many treat the problem (without proper analysis) as a copper or mineral problem, however the metal chelants will show no effect. 2. When treating with chlorine, chlorine seems to “disappear”. SCGA is very resistant to even high levels of chlorine.

Other mid-summer types of green algae noticed is “green spots” all around the pool, especially in shady areas. The water is almost always “very clear”. The water can have a “stinging” sensation. This is normal green algae, typically brought about by lack of homeowner care; i.e. not following a weekly maintenance routine such as the Once-a-Week 3 Step program combined with very low pH and very low Total Alkalinity.

Treatment: Have water properly analyzed. BALANCE THE POOL WATER. Pools treated with chlorine or bromine should aggressively shock with chlorine (BioGuard Burn Out® or Smart Shock®) and use a good quality algaecide such as Back Up®, Algae All 60®, or Banish® in extreme cases. Pools treated with SoftSwim or other Biguanides should top up their Bactericide level “B”, add a double dose of algaecide “A”, and add a double dosage of shock or “C”. Follow up either method with Optimizer Plus® (a borate product similar to ProTeam Supreme). Treating algae with Sodium Bromide should be discouraged (sodium bromide treatments, can, in time, cause a chlorine demand problem).

“Black Algae” (actually blue-green algae) forms in cracks and crevices on pool surfaces, especially plaster finishes. We normally find black algae growing in, but not limited to, shady areas of the pool. Black algae is more typically found in concrete or plaster finished pools; it is very uncommon to find it in vinyl liner pools. It is known for a heavy slime layer and “skeletal growths” that make it impervious to normal chlorine levels. When viewed in a swimming pool, the water remains relatively clear, however, almost all customers notice a high chlorine demand (use much more chlorine than normal). When brushed, “black algae” will be difficult to budge and even though it seems as if it has been removed, the black algae will most likely return to the exact same spots within 24 hours.

What we’re beginning to understand is that Black Algae is “aided” by swimming pool bio-films. As bio-films accumulate on pool surfaces, they act as a kind of “breeding bed” providing nutrients and a “soft” place to set down roots. Removal of the bio-film dramatically aids in the long term treatment of Black algae. The more that the bio-film is removed and continually removed, the less likely Black Algae will be able to set down.

Treatment: Have water properly analyzed. BALANCE THE POOL WATER. Prior to and during treatment, the algae MUST be thoroughly brushed in order to “break open” the slime layer that covers and protects the Black Algae cell. During treatment, the chlorine level MUST be maintained in excess of 3.0 ppm – this may require daily shocking of the pool – AND the affected areas MUST be thoroughly brushed 2 to 3 times per day to allow the chlorine treatment to penetrate the algae. TRUE Black Algae is very resistant to treatment and can be transferred from pool to pool via bathing suits and pool toys. Failure to do these critical steps will prevent the treatment from working. Pools treated with chlorine or bromine should aggressively shock with chlorine (Burn Out® or Smart Shock®) and use a good quality algaecide such as Back Up®, Algae All 60®, or Banish® in extreme cases. Pools treated with SoftSwim or other Biguanides should top up their Bactericide level “B”, add a double dose of algaecide “A”, and add a double dosage of shock or “C”. Follow up either method with Optimizer Plus®. Treating algae with Sodium Bromide should be discouraged as mentioned above.

“Mustard Algae” is probably the MOST misdiagnosed form of algae. Mustard algae is a chlorine-resistant form of green algae (yellow-green to brown in color) typically found in sunbelt areas. It often resembles dirt or sand on the bottom or sides of a pool. In our market area (Fairfield county CT), the number of TRUE Mustard Algae cases that we treat can be counted on ONE HAND in most seasons. Mustard Algae is prevalent in Sunbelt areas. Mustard Algae has certain characteristics: It can be brushed away very easily, but returns quickly to the same location.

Keep in mind that the “algae” may be returning to the same place due to a dead spot in the pool. Be sure that you have good circulation through out the entire pool.

Although it usually creates a large Chlorine demand, it has been known to survive in high levels of Chlorine – over 3.0 ppm. It is extremely important to remove mustard algae growth from equipment (including the back of underwater lights & ladders) and bathing suits to avoid cross or recontamination of other pools. Pool equipment can be left in the pool during product application or cleaned separately with a mild cleaning solution. Rinse thoroughly if equipment is used in a SoftSwim® pool. Bathing suits should be washed with detergent as directed on garment label.

Treatment: Have water properly analyzed. BALANCE THE POOL WATER. Prior to and during treatment, the algae MUST be thoroughly brushed in order to “break open” the slime layer – such as with Black Algae. Failure to do this critical step will prevent the treatment from working. Pools treated with chlorine or bromine should aggressively shock with chlorine shocks such as BioGuard Burn Out® or Smart Shock® and use a good quality algaecide such as Back Up®, Algae All 60®, or Banish® in extreme cases. Pools treated with SoftSwim or other Biguanides should top up their Bactericide level “B”, add a double dose of algaecide “A”, and add a double dosage of shock or “C”. Follow up either method with Optimizer Plus®. Treating algae with Sodium Bromide should be discouraged as mentioned above.

The best way to prevent and control algae is to maintain good pool care. Good pool care means following the 5 Keys to pool care (look for our published articles on theses subjects): 1. Have and maintain good circulation of the water to all parts of the pool. 2. Filter the pool a minimum 8 to 12 hours daily. 3. Clean the pool regularly by vacuuming and brushing all surfaces. 4. Test the Water at least 2 times each week. Testing tells you what is going on with the water. Make adjustments immediately when necessary. 5. Maintain good Water Chemistry. Chlorine or other sanitizer in their correct ranges, pH 7.4 – 7.6, Total Alkalinity 100 – 150 ppm, Calcium Hardness 200 – 300 ppm. On a weekly basis (every week all season long): Shock the pool with the appropriate shock treatment and add a maintenance dose of a good quality algaecide (please don’t use the gallon jug algaecide – they’re mainly colored water).

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/1261708

Spring is blooming across the country and the pool is on that “to do” list of outdoor chores. Why not lessen the chore and make life a bit simpler this year? Removing your swimming pool can reduce hazards and liability so leave it with your pool removal Sydney.

If you’re thinking, “Ron, you’ve got to be kidding!”, then let me put it this way: taking it step by step a little at a time starting a month or more before “officially” opening the pool DOES make pool opening simpler. Following a few easy to follow steps makes it manageable with less stress and overall better success.

First things first. After a long, cold winter just get out there and take a look. You may not want to! Seeing all those accumulated leaves on the cover, not to mention the water may just cause you to stop right there. Instead, hook up your cover pump and start getting that excess water off of the top of the cover. Remember that wherever the water level is on TOP of the cover, that’s where the overall water level itself is.

If the water is fairly clear, don’t worry too much about pumping that water that’s on top, back underneath and into the pool. Especially if the water is cold and clear. The purpose of doing that is to take advantage of the free water. At the same time add a bottle of a good quality (40% strength or greater) algicide into the water right at the point where the top water is going in. Even though the filter or pump may not be hooked up, the water and algicide will flow around the pool.

If you have a white plaster or marble dust finished pool, DO NOT add any type of algicide containing copper at this point. You always want to have the filter system operating to properly circulate the product containing copper. If you don’t, you risk staining the pool surfaces.

Why algicide at this point? An early addition of algicide will begin to combat and prevent early algae growth. This is especially true if you have a mesh style winter or safety cover that allows sunlight to penetrate into the water. Ideally, the best thing to do is to remove the cover from the corners of the pool, take your leaf net and simply swish the water around for a couple of minutes. That will be adequate after adding the algicide.

What else should you consider adding?

If you know that you are prone to metal staining due to heavy metals such as iron, copper or manganese being present in the tap water (this is why you use some of the cleaner water from the top of the cover), prevent staining by adding a good quality metal and stain preventative. If scaling (due to high calcium levels) is a problem during the season, you can add a scale inhibitor at the same time. Remember that calcium is a mineral that dissolves better at colder water temperatures (under 80 degrees F). As the water warms, and gets very warm or is heated, scale can form and dramatically reduce heating efficiency; even if you are using a solar heater (those small tubes are just waiting for scale build-up).

One of the most often neglected products to use at spring pool start up is a good quality enzyme. Enzymes are excellent in prepping your pool’s water for opening and spring start up. Enzymes consume certain organic wastes and build-ups before you get started. Enzymes are best used when you have attached the pump and motor and have started the system.

Starting the filter system while the winter cover is still on is an absolutely terrific idea! You get the water moving and filtered. You get the preventive chemicals circulating. You get the water warming up faster. I began doing this over the past couple of years. I have several trees that don’t finish shedding their early flowers or seeds until late May. The cover stays on and the water remains clean. When the cover comes off, it’s almost ready to swim in.

One chemical that you should NEVER add while the cover is on is any type of shock treatment. Regardless of whether it’s a chlorine or non-chlorine shock ALWAYS have the cover OFF of the pool for a minimum of 4 to 6 hours. Why? The job of the shock treatment is to oxidize or burn off wastes (including ammonia compounds) from the water. As the shock does this oxidation work, those impurities have to “gas-off”. If the cover is on, those gases simply hit the underside of the cover and fall back into the water to re-form as chloramines. Now when you open the pool, you’ll have even more chloramines to deal with which could lead to a serious chlorine demand problem that will be difficult – and expensive – to resolve.

A couple of more Do’s and Don’ts when starting the pool:

DO – Remove excess leaves and debris before removing the winter cover. You definitely DO NOT want that stuff going into your pool.
DO – Balance the pH, total alkalinity, and calcium hardness. Balance it according to mid-summer parameters taking water temperature into consideration.
DO – Consider using a biofilm removal product when first starting. Biofilms are the source of many water problems including white water mold and pink slime, never mind scaling issues, and often times algae. A new products named AquaFinesse Pool Water Care Tablets are easy to use and are an excellent choice.
DO – Shock the pool well. We recommend 3 to 4 times the normal amount for best results. Many pool owners have problems in the middle of the summer because they didn’t adequately shock the pool (or continue doing this step) at start up.
DO – Start with fresh water testing reagents or test strips.
DO – Allow the water to circulate 2 – 3 days continuously before testing. Many chemical components need to be circulated for a proper test.
DO – Chemically clean the filter about one week after opening.
DO – A manual vacuuming and brushing as the first cleaning of the new season. Brushing and vacuuming helps to remove organic build-up from the pool’s interior surfaces and helps to circulate spring opening chemicals.
DO – Chemically clean the solar blanket before using it for the first time of the season.
DON’T – Randomly add water balancing chemicals. Just because you needed or added 25 pounds of total alkalinity increaser last year, doesn’t mean you’ll need the same this year. You many need more or you may need less. Always test first.
DON’T – Add cyanuric acid (also known as CYA, stabilizer, conditioner, sun shield, etc) until after a proper test. Once CYA has been added to the pool, it doesn’t come out of the water unless backwashed out or other wise diluted. It stays in the water from year to year. Excess CYA is an unnecessary expense and can add to a high Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) problem.
DON’T – Use muriatic acid to clean your filter. Muriatic acid will set greases and oils into DE or Cartridge filter fabrics.
DON’T – Use your automatic pool cleaner until after the initial vacuuming and brushing.
DON’T – Put on the solar blanket until after the water is balanced and has been shocked.

Even opening your own pool shouldn’t take longer than 2 to 3 hours for the average residential inground or aboveground pool. Happy Swimming! Use and enjoy your pool.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6142896